Lipids, Glorious Lipids: a Guide to Beneficial Oils

Posted by admin Web Hosting Wednesday 4 October 2006 1:05 am

Marie Veronique Nadeau asked:


Lipids, Glorious Lipids: Part Two

Last month I talked about the stratum corneum and the importance of lipids in maintaining lipid barrier function in the top layer of the epidermis. This lipid barrier keeps water from evaporating on the skin’s surface, and is crucial to preventing dehydration. We all know how these cold, wintry days can dry out our skins.

The questions I’d like to raise this time are the obvious ones every researcher is asking. First of all, we must consider if there is any value to incorporating lipids in various types of skin treatment products.

In examining this question we can look at two scenarios. One is that if certain lipids are contained in skin treatment products, these lipids will be incorporated into the intercellular lipid matrix and lipid barrier. Once incorporated they will assist in repairing the matrix and barrier, thus increasing the moisture binding properties of skin leading to reduced moisture loss and improved skin health. The second scenario is that topically applied lipids will remain on the surface and may leave a pleasant, emollient, cosmetically-appealing feel, but no other benefit.

Here are some facts to consider:

One researcher has demonstrated that a mixture of three lipids (cholesterol, palmitic acid and ceramide) repaired the lipid barrier in skin where lipids were intentionally removed by the use of acetone. The symptoms were relieved with linoleic acid applied topically. Indications are that topical application may be beneficial to people with essential fatty acid deficiency syndrome (EFAD).

Other investigators have shown that topically applied lipids can assist in repairing the lipid barrier, if not by directly replacing damaged or lost lipids, then by absorpting into the lipid barrier and exerting their own water barrier properties. The information to date indicates that lipids in cosmetic products exert a beneficial effect upon the lipid matrix of skin, and incorporating lipids in a cosmetic product will enhance that product’s ability to moisturize and improve the health of skin.

Whether topically applied lipids actually replace lost lipids or are simply absorbed the outcome remains the same- applying the correct lipids will assist in maintaining the structure of the lipid barrier and improving the health and beauty of the skin.

This positive conclusion begs the question: Which lipids are critical to barrier function that should be part of a “lipid mix”?

The answer to this question is currently under scrutiny-lipid research in the cosmetic field is very new, and we have quite a way to go before we can begin to provide systematic answers.

To make an increasingly long story much too short, here is what we know:

1) The composition of lipids compromising the extracellular matrix are 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol and 15% free fatty acids.

2) Essential fatty acid deficiencies have been identified as resulting in abnormalities in stratum corneum function.

Bearing this in mind I have, for the last year, been investigating the properties of various lipids from natural sources, both plant and animal. My goal is to create the best lipid mix available to help you heal and maintain the all-important lipid barrier. As most of you probably know by now, my decision to incorporate oils from animal as well as plant sources is based on my conviction that the best blend will, of necessity, come from a combination of both sources. A plant/animal mix ensures that you get the needed essential fatty acids in the right ratios. I also recommend that you take a fish or krill oil supplement every day to ensure that you maintain beautiful, glowing skin.

Below are just some of the lipids I have chosen for their beneficial properties:

Sea Buckthorn oil–The major EFAs contained in seabuckthorn oil are oleic and linoleic acids. It also contains the following essential fatty acids: pentadecenoic, palmitoleic, heptadecenoic, linolenic, eicosenoic, eicosadienoic, erucic and nervonic. Among the carotenes found in Seabuckthorn are alfa- and beta-carotenes, lycopene, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, taraxanthin and phytofluin. Tocopherols are primarily vitamin E and gamma-tocopherol. Phytosterols of seabuckthorn oil include beta-sitosterol, beta-amirol and erithrodiol.

Marula oil’s high content of palmitic acid creates a protective coating on the surface of the skin. It also has a high concentration of anti-oxidants.

Red raspberry seed oil possesses an exceptionally high proportion of alpha and gamma tocopherols (Vitamin E), vitamin A and omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Red raspberry seed oil offers the skin broad spectrum protection from damaging UV-A and UV-B rays.

Cranberry seed oil is rich in tocotrienols (vitamin E) and other antioxidants, and possesses a unique balance of omega 3, 6 and 9 EFAs not found in other oils.

Emu oil possesses the balance of omega 3, 6 and 9 EFAs that is ideal for healing skin and promoting skin, hair and nail growth. It is anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, has a natural SPF, is a natural emollient and moisturizer, penetrates multiple layers of skin, is non-comedogenic, hypo-allergenic, prevents and diminishes scarring/stretch marks and more. It is recommended for use in a variety of skin disorders and allergies.

Pomegranate seed oil is high in lipids including pucinic acid. Its high polyphenol content makes it a strong anti-oxidant, and it contains conjugated fatty acids which gives it strong anti-inflammatory properties.

Krill oil (from a crustacean) contains vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin D and canthaxanthin, which is, like astaxanthin, a potent anti-oxidant. The anti-oxidant potency of krill oil is such that when compared to fish oil in terms of ORAC (Oxygen radical absorptance capacity) values it was found to be 48 times more potent than fish oil.

The astaxanthin found in krill oil provides excellent protection against ultraviolet light and UV-induced skin damage.

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